August 13, 2021
Scrolling through Instagram last week, a page I follow, Edible New Mexico, showcased Laura Crucet, owner and Executive Chef at Pig + Fig Cafe in the town of White Rock. Not wanting to drive an hour and a half just for lunch, I looked at what I could do nearby. That’s when I saw how close the Cafe is to Bandelier National Monument.
About Bandelier National Monument
About 30 minutes beyond Pig + Fig is Bandelier National Monument, a 50 square mile park dedicated to preservation of the homesteads of the Ancestral Puebloans that occupied the land beginning in the 1100s.
The natives that occupied these lands took advantage of the numerous caves that pocked the surface of the tuff cliff faces that make the Frijoles Canyon, expanding the caves to larger sizes to suit their needs, and often intentionally blackening the ceilings with smoke to improve the structural integrity of the dwellings.
These caves (or, more technically speaking, cavates) supplemented the homes built from tuff blocks harvested from around the canyon.
Near these homes on the canyon floor were functional kivas, large, circular pits dug into the ground and used for ceremonial or political purposes.
Preservation
After the Ancestral Puebloans deserted the valley in the 1500s, the site was left to ruin until preservation efforts were initiated in 1916 when President Woodrow Wilson signed legislation creating the monument.
Since then the National Park Service has dedicated to protecting the remaining structures that dot the canyon floor and cliff walls.
Our Trip
Thursday after work, I cleaned out my car and did some repacking of my backpack. There were a few things I wanted to add to the carry. I got it all ready, along with a change of clothes (afternoon thunderstorms were expected) in a separate backpack, got water ready and packed everything in the car so I wouldn’t have to do it while trying to pack Ash up for the dog-sitter.
The next morning, Alan showed up to my apartment and we left at around 7:30. We skirted around some first-week school traffic and made way for Blakes Lot-A-Burger for a couple of breakfast burritos, then dropped Ash before making our way up to Los Alamos.
As we approached the park, we came across a small parking area with an overlook into the Frijoles Canyon that we would soon find ourselves hiking through. Alan took his bring-’em-closers and we went down the the overlook. He showed some burned scars on the distant Jemez Mountains that he thought were from a burn in 2011, but a sign at the overlook told us the burns were actually in 1996 and 1997. 25 years ago and the mountainsides still hadn’t healed. It was sad to see.
I took a peek through Alan’s binoculars and spotted some people already on the trail we were headed for. When I took the binocs away, I was astounded to see how far above them we were. I knew the binoculars would allow me to zoom in on them, but I didn’t think they’d zoom in that much. I snapped a few pictures and we got back in the car and headed off.
We stopped at the ranger shack on the fittingly-named Entrance Road where I inquired about the purchase of an America the Beautiful Pass. I was told I could make that purchase in the visitor’s center, so we made our way up to the small parking lot and went in to conduct some business.
The America the Beautiful Annual Pass allows for unlimited access to any National Park or any other Federal Recreational areas. Since I am currently planning trips to at least three, potentially four, National Parks and as many National Monuments and other recreational areas as I can, in the next year, and considering the admission to each park is generally around $20-$25, it only made sense to spend the $80 and be covered for a year.
The pass came with a hanger to hang it from the rear view mirror of your vehicle. Alan and I went back to the car to hang the pass, strap on our packs and headed out on to the Main Loop Trail
If you remember from my hike on the South Crest Trail and La Luz Trail, I somehow wound up missing one of the quick release locks from one of my trekking poles. I ordered a new one from Cascade Mountain Tech but it wasn’t scheduled to arrive until Friday. While I was out on my hike. I knew I was going to want my poles for this trip so I went to True Value and got a short bolt and wing nut to hold the lower section of my pole. It was a Jerry rigged setup that prevented the full collapse of the pole while stowed, but I digress.
Trail Statistics
There are a few trails at Bandelier. The main loop trail is called, oddly enough, the Main Loop Trail. At the apex of that trail is a spur that leads to the Alcove House. That trail is called… wait for it.
The Alcove House Trail.
I decided I wanted the full experience so I brought up the Alcove House Trail on AllTrails and found:
The Alcove House Trail is an easy 2.6 mile hike with a 252 foot elevation gain. What AllTrails neglects to mention is that 140 feet of that is a straight up ascent up a series of ladders and narrow stairways up to the Alcove House.
But we’ll get to that later.
Alan was agreeable to my idea so we made our way. The first portion of the trail is very easy. Level, paved trail, little, if any, elevation gain, and plenty of opportunities for pictures of the large kivas off the side of the trail. Just beyond those, we wound our way through a maze of the remains of tuff block dwellings.
Just following these ruins, we encountered the first of numerous sets of stairs we would need to climb throughout the rest of our journey.
At the top of that initial set of stairs, we encountered what has been dubbed the Long House, a row of homes built from the same tuff blocks along the base of the cliff wall. The cliffs are pocked with straight rows of holes where vigas, or support beams, were used to build these homes two or three stories high.
Along these cliff walls, several ladders allowed access into the cavates about 15 or 20 feet up. The first cavate I climbed to wasn’t quite big enough for me to get into so I just peered in to see the black soot staining the ceiling and upper walls.
The next ladder we came across led to a cave just big enough for me to get into. Once inside, it wasn’t quite tall enough for me to stand so I just squatted for a bit, took a couple pictures from the entrance and window and exited.
We eventually came to a third ladder that I was able to fully stand in, with the ceiling a good 7 feet tall. There was very little to see in this cave so I exited pretty quickly and we moved on.
We continued along the base of the cliff walls for a bit longer before dropping back into the canyon. Eventually, the pavement ended and we were finally on a dirt trail as we approached the junction that would lead us to the Alcove House.
The Alcove House
Immediately upon deciding to make the trek to the Alcove House, hikers are greeted with this sign:
Notice:
1/2 mile level trail to base of Alcove House. 140 ft vertical ascent via ladders and stairs required to enter the alcove. Those with health problems or fear of heights should not attempt the climb.
I have health problems and a fear of heights, so why wouldn’t I try this?
The spur trail to the Alcove House is a short, relatively flat half mile trail. It crosses a small creek four times via plank bridges, and winds through a surprisingly green forest.
Before too long, we were at the base of the first ladder. There was another warning sign, once more warning against the ascent for those with health problems or fear of heights. It was here that we paused, collected ourselves, I stowed my trekking poles and began the climb up the first ladder. Being terrible with heights and distances, it’d be hard for me to tell you how far this one ladder climbed but if forced to make an estimation, I’d say 20-25 feet? and it’s almost completely vertical. The ladder it secured to the cliff wall but there’s still a little play so the ladder rocked a bit under my weight shifting as I climbed.
It was at this moment that La Luz trail didn’t seem so bad.
I made it up to the first landing but was greeted by more stone stairs that had to be climbed before we were at an actual rest spot. To make matters worse, the stairs were barely wide enough for me to rest one foot on. The rest of the stairs were pretty much this narrow.
We rested for a moment before continuing on to the second ladder, which was about the same height as the first. At the top of that ladder were more stairs and a VERY narrow path that was so narrow, I couldn’t step properly. I had to turn sideways and kind of shuffle through the narrow gap. Great. Let’s trigger my acrophobia and claustrophobia simultaneously!
Thankfully, that narrow slot was pretty short so we were through it pretty quickly.
We then got to a landing just before the penultimate ladder. This one was the beast. I would not clock this guy any shorter than 40 feet. Again, almost straight up. Alan and I sat on this landing longer than the previous one, just while tried to psych myself up for what was coming our way. At this point, my body was on the verge of giving out. Sure, there was some physical exhaustion to be spoken of, but I’m talking I mentally was not ready to do this. at this point though, we were somewhere around 100 feet up from the canyon floor. I was able to get through some of the worst situations I’d ever been through by now. And what was my escape plan? If I simply could. Not. Do. It. Then what? If I couldn’t continue UP, I certainly wouldn’t be able to go DOWN, where I’m looking down to the great lengths I’d plummet should I lose my grip.
So we continued up.
Just beyond that behemoth of a ladder was the last ladder that stood maybe 6 feet tall. We scrambled up that ladder quickly and we were in the alcove.
It was here that I had a total breakdown. I had so many thoughts racing through my head at once, some good, some bad, some encouraging, some not so much. I couldn’t stand any more. I found a rock and sat down to cope with this moment.
The resounding thought that I left with though is, I’ve finally found who I am.
Alan and I have known each other for 3 or 4 years – not very long at all – but I have undergone such a drastic transformation since even he’s known me.
If you had asked me three or four years ago if I’d ever climb 140 feet of vertical ladders and narrow stairways, I would have laughed in your face. If you asked me if I’d be hiking, or camping, or just out and seeing new things, just about ever weekend, I would have told you were crazy.
And I was able to do this almost entirely alone. Sure, I’ve had company on most of my adventures, but I’m doing these things with them, not because of them.
The Descent and Return
Once I was able to compose myself and gather enough energy to, I got up and Alan and I reversed course and headed back down the ladders and stairs to the comfort of solid ground. I got my poles out from my pack and we started back toward the visitor’s center. The trail back was dirt and sand, and really, I could have taken the rubber tips off of my poles, but nah, I just left them on.
The return to the trailhead was entirely through the lush forest we trekked through to the Alcove House. There was plenty of shade, but it was awfully humid, a factor we noted before we even got to that spur trail, after the first crossing of the creek in the canyon floor.
Still, we powered through and got back to the parking lot where we peeled our packs off of our sweat-drenched backs and piled them in the car.
Alan went to refill his water bottle while I headed into the park store to grab a couple trinkets for my souvenir wall. I wound up with a magnet, a pin and a collectible token.
We got into the car, cranked the AC to twelve (mine goes to twelve…) and we headed down to White Rock for lunch.
Pig + Fig
Pig + Fig Cafe was the driver to get me out to this area in the first place, so Laura, thanks for being featured on Edible New Mexico and for getting me to come to Bandelier National Monument.
It took about 20 minutes to get to the cafe. I already had an idea of what I wanted so when we got in and Alan had decided what he wanted, I orders, “Can I get the Cuban please?”
“Uhhh, we’re out of the Cubans…”
“D’oh! Alright, I guess I’ll get the Hot Pig + Fig Sandwich:
Honey-cured ham, spinach, brie and fig jam on ciabatta, panini pressed; sea salt potato chips
-Pig + Fig Cafe Menu
Alan ordered the same and we took a seat outside. Our food came in a reasonable amount of time. It looked good:
I took a bite and was mildly disappointed that the middle of the stack of ham was not heated through. In fact it was still cold. I was expecting the “hot” sandwich to be hot all the way, but it wasn’t.
Aside from that though, the flavor profile was simply amazing on this sandwich. The salty of the ham, the sweet of the fig jam, the creaminess of the brie, the chewiness of the ciabatta bread. If only it was hot all the way through.
The chips were fine, simple, plain, small batch potato chips. I could have subbed them out for fries or fruit, but decided against it.
All told, it was a fine plate for $9. I definitely plan on coming back next spring to see if there’s some runoff for the falls on the Upper Falls Trail (again with the super original trail names) and I plan on returning to Pig + Fig Cafe when I do.
Once we were done, I stopped again at the counter and ordered a banana and butterscotch muffin and a coffee to go. The muffin was good, the coffee would have been good if it was warmer, but really, who drinks coffee at 1:30 in the afternoon?
We jetted off, getting back to the apartment right around 3:30 or so and I came in, took a shower and laid in bed for an hour.
Conclusion
Overall it was an amazing trip. I feel very accomplished, and exceedingly cleansed by what I accomplished today. The hike was pretty intense, the emotions ran high and I came out of it stronger than I’d gone in. It’s times like these that I’m so grateful for friends like Alan, to be there when things are tough.
I’ve added pictures from this trip to my Photo Diary, make sure you check those out, and stay tuned, as tomorrow, I’m going to the zoo!
I leave you now with this quote:
He found himself wondering at times, especially in the autumn, about the wild lands, and strange visions of mountains that he had never seen came into his dreams.
-J.R.R. Tolkien
Thanks for stopping by, I appreciate you!
-Phil
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