October 7, 2023
Well, I finally get to cross two items off my Iowa To-Do List: touring the Bridges of Madison County and visiting the John Wayne Birthplace and Museum.
It was a perfect trip on a perfect day. Read on…
We had anticipated leaving right around 9:00 or so Saturday morning. I woke Brandy up at about 8:30 then left to run the car through the car wash, get gas and grab coffee. By the time I got back home, Brandy was about ready to go so we put Ash in his kennel and headed out just after 9:00.
The drive to our first stop was right around an hour an a half so we got to Imes Covered Bridge in St. Charles right around 10:45.
Imes Bridge
The oldest of the six remaining covered bridges in Madison County, the bridge was built over the Middle River in 1870. It was moved in 1887, then moved to its present location in 1977. At only a mile and a half away, I was surprised at how close to Interstate 35 the bridge is located- we were at the bridge mere minutes after taking exit 52 off the freeway.
Upon our arrival, there were already a small handful of people there walking the bridge and taking pictures. Turns out that would be a recurring theme throughout the day.
I was dismayed to see the amount of graffiti covering the inside of the bridge. Seems everyone that visits wants everyone else to know they were there. I, for one though, couldn’t care less that Pete and Amanda visited in 2008, or whatever. This, too, was also an all-too-frequent sight throughout the day.
After we got our own pictures, we hopped back into the car and headed in to St. Charles to try to visit the St. Charles Welcome Center. The website says the center is open 10:00 am – 2:00 pm Thursday through Saturday but when we arrived, the door was locked and the sign indicated that they didn’t open until 11:00. At it was 10:58 when we arrived, I wanted to hang out until they opened. Brandy, on the other hand, did not, so we left, and headed to our next stop, the Holliwell Bridge.
Holliwell Bridge
The Holliwell Bridge currently sits over the Middle River but, as with most of the bridges we saw, is not open to vehicular traffic. This bridge was built 10 years later than the Imes Bridge, in 1880, and still sits in its original location.
we took our requisite pictures then headed on to the next bridge, the Cutler-Donahoe Bridge.
Cutler-Donahoe Bridge
Originally built over the North River near Bevington in 1870, this bridge was moved to its current location, just inside the entrance of the Winterset City Park, in 1979.
This was now the shortest bridge we’d seen at this point now, at 79 feet long.
Brandy and I were fascinated by the proximity of this bridge to residences that neighbor the park. The bridge was practically the back yard to a nearby house.
After getting our pictures, we set off to our first non-bridge destination, Clark Tower.
Clark Tower
Clark Tower is a 25-foot tall limestone tower built in 1926 in honor of Caleb and Ruth Clark, the first white settlers in Winterset.
The tower sits closer to the south end of the park so we started the mile-long drive deep into the park.
Almost immediately upon making our way toward the tower, we happened upon a small stone bridge that was clearly featured in the film that prompted the trip. In this scene, the stars are picnicking in a park near the stone bridge as seen in this image:
I hopped out of the car, snapped a quick picture and we went about our way.
The path is a single-wide lane (sometimes even narrower) that twists and turns its way through a beautifully forested park that, on the day we were there, emanated a beautiful orange-yellow glow from the fall foliage ever present. There were times we were fully encapsulated by the trees that shone their October colors on us.
The path is very bendy, making lots of sharp turns, sometimes while simultaneously ascending up some steep inclines. At one point, we crossed over a very narrow wooden bridge. It was a slow trip as we had such tight turns to make and hikers to contend with.
We eventually made it to the tower where, once more, several people were gathered taking pictures.
When the tower cleared out as much as we could get it, we began taking our own pictures. We went into the tower then climbed the staircase that spirals around the outside of the tower to the second level. From there, a metal ladder lets visitors up to the roof of the tower for unparalleled views all the way around.
Once we’d gotten our fill of pictures, we headed back to the car and made our way back down on the one way, one lane trail to the entrance of the park where sits the covered bridge that drew us there in the first place.
After that, it was time to eat so we headed to the town square for some quick shopping and lunch.
Winterset Town Square
A short drive from the city park is the town square, in the middle of which is the Madison County courthouse, the physical address of which is on John Wayne Drive (more on that coming up.) We stopped at an antique store on the way to the square and shopped around, picking up a cast iron clothes iron and a moonshine-style jug to act as doorstops. From there, we headed into the square and found a spot to park. We walked up and down one of the streets, the street where my desired stop for lunch was located. We initially passed it while doing some shopping, then, after we’d popped into a few stores on the strip, we headed back to The Drift. The place was small, and packed. They offer al fresco dining in an alley right next to their place, but they apparently weren’t serving out there that day. We decided to forego that spot and instead stopped in at Mi Pueblito.
We went in to the restaurant and we promptly seated. We browsed the menu and made our decisions before our waiter came to take our order. I ordered the carnitas en salsa verde, Brandy ordered the Texas fajitas, and we ordered chips and cheese dip for an appetizer. The food showed up fairly quickly. My carnitas was so incredibly tender and flavorful, but unfortunately, the tortillas it was served with seemed to be mass-produced, store-bought flour tortillas. They were piping hot when we got them, but by the time they’d cooled down enough to handle, they were super chewy and not very good.
After we finished, we paid our tab and headed on to our next stop, the John Wayne Birthplace & Museum.
John Wayne Birthplace & Museum
Marion Robert Morrison was born in Winterset, IA, in 1907. One thing led to another and, after changing his name to John Wayne, he died in 1979 an absolute legend of the silver screen, eventually winning an Oscar for his performance in True Grit, which, to date, is still the only John Wayne movie I’ve ever seen.
In 2015, the museum catty corner to the home where he was born opened.
We showed up to the museum just after 2:00. Brandy didn’t have any desire to go so she waited for me in the car. I entered and paid the $20 admission fee, was given a brief rundown of the layout of the museum and was set on my way.
The first exhibit I entered focused more on his personal life and showcases a 1972 Pontiac station wagon that was modified by George Barris, raising the roof in the front by several inches. It was noted by Barris, “John didn’t want to stoop his head. He just wanted to slide right in.”
In the same exhibit was a large bookcase (apparently, John Wayne was a reader), several articles of clothing and a large reproduction of the set of The Alamo, one of two films that Wayne himself directed.
After checking that exhibit out, I went to the other side that focused more on his acting career. This exhibit contained several posters, set pieces and wardrobes from Wayne’s storied career (did you know that John Wayne appeared in over one hundred fifty films?! I did not!)
Of course, there was a large display dedicated to the one movie I’ve seen, True Grit. This display contains a couple of the outfits worn in the movie, including the eyepatch (complete with certificate of authenticity), a ticket to the premiere of the move and the rifle he rode with in that famous scene. You know the one…
Once I’d made my circuit through that exhibit, I went out the back door and down a short sidewalk to the actual birthplace.
The house is a small two bedroom home on the corner of 2nd St and South St. The house is covered by a hip roof. The stained-glass door faces the corner under the cover of the small front porch.
The decorations are all period pieces; apparently the Morrisons only rented the house (along with all its furnishings.) Nothing in the house was owned by them and likewise, they didn’t own anything that would be on display there.
There are some vintage photos of the Morrisons scattered throughout the house, showing Marion, parents Clyde and Mary, and brother Robert. The kitchen has a vintage cupboard with a sugar jar mounted to the inside of the door, and a flour sifter built into the cabinet. There’s a water pump in the kitchen sink and, noticeably missing is any sign of a bathroom. Of course, indoor plumbing wasn’t common until later in the 20th century.
Apparently, the Morrisons were only in that home about six months after Marion was born, the family leaving for Brooklyn, IA soon after.
After gandering about in the house for a bit, I exited and made my way back to the museum’s gift shop. I picked up a pressed penny, a shot glass and a couple of magnets for our ever-growing collection.
I headed back to the car and hopped in to start the last half ouf our tour of the bridges.
Roseman Bridge
Our next stop was at the Roseman Bridge, which is the most prominently featured bridge in the movie. This is the bridge Clint Eastwood is looking for when he shows up at Meryl Streep’s farm, and it’s bridge where she leaves a note for him, inviting him to dinner.
As this is the one most sought after by bridge tourists, there is a gift shop a short walk away from the bridge. I went in but there stuff they had there was mostly the same stuff they had in the other gift shops we’d been in throughout the day. They did have a bunch of merchandise emblazoned with the line, “This kind of certainty comes but once in a lifetime” but nothing really stuck out to me.
I took my pictures of the bridge and we headed off to the next stop, Cedar Bridge.
Cedar Bridge
Cedar Bridge has certainly had the most challenging existence of all of the six bridges.
The original bridge was built in 1883. In 1921, it was moved to its current location. In 2002, the original bridge was destroyed by an arsonist. It was rebuilt in 2004, then 13 years later, in 2017, this second bridge was once again destroyed by arsonists. Three teenagers were arrested and each was sentenced to five years’ probation and charged with restitution for the replacement of the bridge.
Two years later, in 2019, the third Cedar Bridge made its debut during the annual Covered Bridge Festival.
This is the only bridge that can be driven across, so you better believe that once my pictures were taken, we drove across it.
We made our way over the narrow, one-lane bridge and headed off to our final stop of the day, Hogback Bridge.
Hogback Bridge
The drive to Hogback Bridge was reminiscent of the drive through the Winterset City Park, towering trees igniting the winding road with the orange glow of autumn. By the time we were on our way to our final stop, it was 3:30, the shadows were getting very long and the day was climbing toward its end.
We got to the bridge and, of course, there was already a handful of people there taking pictures and milling about. I bypassed the parking area to the south of the bridge in favor of the empty parking are to the north. I tried taking some pictures from that side, but the bridge was better lit from the other side. I made the walk down the bridge and found that the planks on this bridge were rougher than on the others we’d visited throughout the day. I almost twisted my ankle on the widely gapped planks but thankfully avoided injury.
Hogback bridge is the longest of the 6 remaining bridges, at 106 feet. At the other end was a teenaged girl with a guitar and an older woman. It appeared they were getting ready to shoot some photos or video, perhaps for a social media platform, I don’t know. I’m pretty out of touch, so I couldn’t say.
I got better pictures from the south side of the bridge and walked back over the bridge to the car.
We got back on the road just after 4:00, and the GPS was telling us the drive home would be right around 2 hours. We started off for the long drive home.
Conclusion
Our trip to Winterset to tour the famed Bridges of Madison County was an absolutely perfect trip. The weather couldn’t have been better, the time I got to spend with Brandy was bliss and I got to see another new part of Iowa while knocking two items off my Iowa To-Do List. I’m glad we went when we did; turns out the aforementioned Covered Bridges Festival was two weeks after our visit. I’m glad we missed all that traffic and crowd.
This trip did absolutely nothing to dampen the elation I’ve been feeling lately. I am, without a doubt, on another level.
I have posted the pictures from this trip over on my Photo Diary, be sure to swing by and check those out.
Next up, we’re getting our back door replaced on Saturday. Brandy is leaving the next day to go to Utah for a week. At some point, I’ll be going to the Mayhem haunted house, maybe with Hilary, maybe not. When I got to Des Moines to pick Brandy back up from the airport, I’ll go early and try to hit a haunt out there. After that, we don’t have anything planned until a briefly mentioned trip to Omaha before Thanksgiving, then a trip to Waukee, just outside of Des Moines, for a blue October concert.
Brandy mentioned a trip to Crested Butte for her birthday but quickly retracted that as we are eager to start saving for a truck and camper to start our traveling. I’m not sure if we’ll get to that point before this upcoming summer, but we’re certainly going to try.
But that’s looking way farther ahead than I care to. Let’s get out of October first, huh?
As always, I thank anyone that stumbles onto my little thingy here. I’m pretty sure I’m about the only one that reads these posts, but that’s OK. This blog is for me.
Until next time.
-Phil
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